RUTA DEL SOL, ECUADOR


  • Temperature: 24ºC 
  • Distance from hammock to ocean: 60 m
  • Beers drank: only on happy hour
  • Kilometres run by Elisa: 5km - not much but first k’s since leaving Uy


After Galapagos it was time to explore Ecuador further. We decided to go straight from the airport to a beach town called Puerto Lopez. Many travellers we met along the way told us it is guaranteed to spot whales in Puerto Lopez, so it was an easy decision to take a 3 hour bus there. I had always wanted to see whales. For example in Uruguay, where whales are also seen often swim along the coastline, we have tried to spot them a couple of times but failed.


The town was small but lively. The first night we could barely sleep as cumbia and reggaeton was playing nearby until wee hours, disturbing our dreams. But we did not mind. No early mornings to catch a ferry to see weird animals, no more. Galapagos was a bit hectic and we were on a schedule all the time, so now we decided to take it easy and enjoy the beach. Unfortunately the weather was not very good the entire time and we did not make it to the beach. But, we made it to the whales.


For 20 USD per person we got to board a boat to chase the whales. After about 10 minutes off the pier we saw the first one. Humpback. And he was not alone. There were four of them, coming to the surface every 10 minutes or so to catch their breath. There we were, waiting, eagerly to get a glimpse of them. And they treated us well. We saw probably seven individuals several times. It was mesmerising. After returning to the shore we saw some blue-footed boobies (those are birds!) and had a chance to snorkel a bit to see colorful fishes, coral and a star fish.


We paid a quick visit to the Parque Machalilla which did not have much to offer, but nice beaches and a dried out hiking path. We just sat on the beach drinking tea with honey and watching the funny red crabs run around the beach disappearing into their holes. They dig a hole in the sand by actually carrying an “armful” of sand out, dropping it and patting it gently on the ground. It is rather funny to see how they do it, and you have to be very still and silent, as they detect every movement and quickly retreat into their holes for protection. 


After the park we took a bus to Montañita, an hour south of Puerto Lopez, and settled into paradise. The hostel was directly at the beach with hammocks on the porch, overlooking the Pacific ocean, riddled with palm trees. We had the best stay there, their breakfast was delicious and the hosts great. I worked most of the time we spent in Montañita and Puerto Lopez which is a welcome change to all the sightseeing and traveling. It makes me feel like I’m doing something useful. In this town we had the best tacos of the trip and enjoyed some happy hour cocktails while watching football.

Now it is time to say goodbye to this continent. South America has been an amazing experience, and we’ve seen such different places: From the cold Andes mountains to the warm beaches of Galapagos, every day has been an adventure. Soon we fly over the Pacific to Auckland in New Zealand, which we start exploring, and Australia soon after. Adios!